Sintra National Palace: “For the best” (“por bem”)

 

To get the best view of the National Palace in Sintra you have to climb the ancient ruins of the Moorish Castle on the mountain nearby. Down below, in the middle of the old town, lies the palace.

The most striking feature are two enormous chimneys, that stick out over the roof of the palace. More or less the shape of the tower of the hop kilns (a building designed for drying hops as part of the brewing process) in Kent. The chimneys are (in) the roof of the kitchen. When you look up from the kitchen you can see the hole where the fumes go out. 

Originally the palace was built as residence for the Moorish governors of Lisbon. From 1147 onward it became the residence of the Portuguese kings until the monarchy ended in 1910. It is obvious that is was a place of splendid entertainment. While there, the Swans' room was full of people. It derives its name from the painted ceiling; covered with white swans wearing little golden crowns around their necks. 

In another room the ceiling is covered with magpies. The magpies hold ribbons in their beaks with the motto of the king: "Por bem" (For the best). It is the first known private "antechamber".

Everywhere in the palace (as everywhere in Portugal) are tiles. Different rooms have different tiles with different images, mosaics, forms. The vine pattern of the tiles (in King Sebastião's room) is unique.

The palace is a result of building efforts of many kings. The Arms room represents the centralised power of Manuel I. The ceiling in its heraldic glory. From this room the fleets going to or coming back from Brazil, Africa or India could be seen.

The most strange part tough are these two towering chimneys. The wind – straight from the Atlantic Ocean - blows over the openings and makes a howling noise in the kitchen. 

Alongside the palace are small but lovely gardens. When the cold ocean winds are gone, this friendly grinning lion would love to talk with you about all the kings and queens that kept him company before....